Frequently Asked Product Questions

All dimensions and technical information are detailed in the item description on our individual product pages. You can also find diagrams under the tab labelled 'Specifications' . If there is anything else you need to know about a product, please contact us and we will endeavour to provide an answer to your question.

Many of our products are handmade and so quoted sizes may vary by plus or minus 3% against the figures stated on our website.

When planning installations where dimensions are critical, we would always recommend you contact us prior to ordering to confirm dimensions.

RossaStone® is our stone composite material used for selected baths, basins and shelves. It is designed to balance sculptural beauty with everyday practicality, offering a durable, easy-to-clean surface suited to modern luxury bathrooms.

Our cast iron baths are designed as lasting centrepieces. They combine traditional craftsmanship, reassuring weight and timeless form, making them ideal for bathrooms where elegance, durability and presence matter.

Our key brassware collections include Linton, Bayor and Klee. Linton offers an elegant, understated look, Bayor is inspired by the clean geometry of 1920s Bauhaus design, and Klee features distinctive industrial handwheel detailing.

Many products are available in a choice of finishes, including chrome, polished nickel, brushed nickel, living brass, timeless brass, brushed brass, matt black and selected special finishes. Finish availability varies by product, so please check the individual product page or contact us for guidance.

Living brass is an unlacquered finish designed to change naturally over time. As the brass oxidises, it develops a unique patina, giving each piece its own character. It can also be polished to restore brightness when desired.

Selected products and finishes may have samples available. Where offered, you can request a sample from the relevant product page or contact our team for help choosing the right finish for your bathroom.

Yes. Many Ashbee & Stone designs are created to work across different interior styles. A cast iron bath can sit beautifully with contemporary brassware, while modern RossaStone® pieces can be softened with traditional finishes and classic accessories.

Clean your Ashbee & Stone taps regularly with a soft cloth and warm, mild soapy water, then rinse and dry the surface to help prevent water spots and limescale build-up. Avoid abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, bleach and harsh chemicals, as these can damage the finish. Ashbee & Stone tapware and showers are cast from solid brass, and some finishes will naturally patina over time, particularly living finishes such as living brass and polished nickel. Where required, polished brass can be restored with a suitable metal polish, but this should be done sparingly and only after cleaning the surface first.

A pop-up waste allows you to open and close the basin waste using a control on or near the tap, rather than pressing or removing a plug by hand. Some 3-hole and monobloc basin mixers include this feature.

Not always. Wall-mounted taps require suitable wall plumbing, correct projection, and enough clearance over the basin. They should be planned carefully before installation, especially with countertop basins, vanity units, and stone basins.

Living brass is an unlacquered brass finish that naturally changes over time as it reacts with the air, moisture, and everyday use. This creates a unique aged patina, which is part of the character of the finish.

Living brass will naturally change in appearance over time unless maintained regularly. If you prefer a finish that stays more consistent, a PVD finish such as timeless brass may be more suitable. For more information on our range of finishes, please contact our customer service team on 01723 585896 or send your question via email to [email protected].

Yes, our tapware ranges are designed to coordinate with matching shower fittings, allowing you to create a consistent finish and style across the bathroom. Some product pages specifically note matching shower ranges, such as the Calder range.

Most freestanding baths require an overflow waste and a bath trap to be plumbed in correctly.

For many of our freestanding cast iron baths, we recommend purchasing the exposed overflow waste and shallow seal bath trap from us. This is because our waste requirements are not always standard, and we cannot guarantee that fittings purchased elsewhere will be compatible with our baths.

Your plumber should always check the bath specification and waste position before installation.

Standpipes are used to support deck-mounted taps for baths without tap holes. They are usually fitted through the floor and secured in position before the taps are connected. Our standpipes our supplied with flexible tap connectors for easier fitting.

First, connect the flexible pipes to your water supply. Remove the top cap of the standpipes and screw this onto the thread of your taps. Slide the standpipes over the flexible pipes and position them upright. Secure the standpipes to the floor, then slide of the support brace (if using) then connect the other end of the flexible pipes to the taps.

Once the taps are connected, tighten the grub screws at the top of each standpipe to secure everything in place.

When standpipes are described as not suitable for solid floors, this usually refers to concrete floors or other floors where pipework cannot easily be accessed or adjusted from below.

If you want to install this type of standpipe on a solid floor, we usually recommend using a suitable timber plinth or raised base. Your plumber should check the installation requirements before fitting.

Some of our cast iron baths are available either with tap holes or without tap holes.

A bath without tap holes has a continuous roll top all the way around. This option is suitable for wall-mounted taps, freestanding taps, or deck-mounted taps fitted on standpipes.

A bath with tap holes is designed for deck-mounted bath taps. Our baths with tap holes normally have two tap holes set 180mm apart, measured from the centre of one tap hole to the centre of the other.

Tap holes cannot be added or removed after the bath has been cast. Drilling into a cast iron bath can cause irreversible damage to the enamel and is not recommended.

Standpipes and shrouds are used for different types of bath and tap installation.

Standpipes are used with baths without tap holes. They allow deck-mounted taps to be installed as freestanding taps beside the bath. If your taps already have legs, you may not need separate standpipes.

Shrouds are used with baths that have tap holes. They cover the visible pipework between the tap threads and the floor. If the bath is positioned against a wall and the pipework will not be seen, shrouds may not be necessary. If the pipework will be visible, shrouds create a neater finish.

Ashbee & Stone offers a wide range of luxury shower sets in traditional, contemporary and industrial styles. The collection includes exposed, semi-exposed and concealed shower sets, with options such as fixed shower roses, rigid risers, handshowers, slider rails and dual-outlet configurations. Many designs are available in finishes including polished brass, brushed brass, polished nickel, brushed nickel, matt black and chrome, allowing you to choose a shower that complements your bath, brassware and wider bathroom scheme.

Yes. Ashbee & Stone showers are designed with thermostatic temperature control, using high-quality European thermostatic cartridges to help maintain a safe, consistent and comfortable showering experience. This helps protect against sudden changes in water temperature while delivering the refined performance expected from a luxury shower.

Clean your Ashbee & Stone shower regularly with a soft cloth and warm, mild soapy water, then rinse and dry the surface to help prevent water spots and limescale build-up. Avoid abrasive cleaners, scouring pads, bleach and harsh chemicals, as these can damage the finish. Ashbee & Stone tapware and showers are cast from solid brass, and some finishes will naturally patina over time, particularly living finishes such as living brass and polished nickel. Where required, polished brass can be restored with a suitable metal polish, but this should be done sparingly and only after cleaning the surface first.

We recommend that Ashbee & Stone showers are installed by a qualified professional plumber to ensure they are fitted safely, correctly and in line with the installation instructions supplied with your product. This is especially important for thermostatic shower valves, concealed shower systems and multi-outlet configurations. If you need a copy of the installation instructions before fitting, please contact our team on 01723 585896 or email [email protected].

A walk-in shower is usually an open, minimalist shower area with one or more glass panels and no fully closing door. It creates a spacious, contemporary look and is ideal for larger bathrooms or wet-room style layouts.

A shower enclosure is a more contained showering space, typically formed with glass panels and a door, such as a hinged, sliding or quadrant enclosure. It is designed to keep water within a defined area, making it a practical choice for smaller bathrooms, ensuites and layouts where splash control is important.

Both options can create a beautiful luxury bathroom; the right choice depends on your available space, desired style and how much water containment you need.

Ashbee & Stone walk-in shower enclosures are available in a range of tray sizes to suit different bathroom layouts, including 1200mm x 800mm, 1200mm x 900mm, 1400mm x 800mm and 1400mm x 900mm. Depending on the collection, glass panel sizes may also vary, allowing you to choose a configuration that best fits your space. Please check the individual product page for the exact size options available for your chosen enclosure.

A rainfall shower is a shower with a larger fixed shower head, often called a shower rose, designed to let water fall evenly from above in a soft, rain-like flow. It creates a more relaxing and luxurious showering experience than a standard directional shower head.

Rainfall showers can be ceiling-mounted or wall-mounted on a shower arm or riser, and are often paired with a separate handshower for added flexibility when rinsing, cleaning the shower area or bathing children and pets.

In most structurally sound homes that meet current building regulations, a cast iron bath should not be too heavy for the bathroom floor.

When filled with water, many of our cast iron baths are comparable in weight to around five people standing in the bathroom at the same time. We have never had a case where one of our baths has caused a floor to fail.

However, if you live in an older property, are unsure about the condition of your floor, or have any concerns about load-bearing capacity, we recommend speaking to a qualified surveyor or structural professional before installation.

Both cast iron baths and stone baths are designed to be durable, long-lasting and visually striking, but they offer slightly different looks and practical benefits.

A cast iron bath is ideal if you want a classic bathroom centrepiece with traditional character, weight and presence. It works beautifully in period, traditional and timeless bathroom schemes.

A stone bath is often chosen for a cleaner, more contemporary look, with smooth lines and a modern sculptural finish. Some stone baths, such as our Delaunay, are made from a lightweight stone material, making them easier to handle and position than many heavier stone baths on the market.

Both our cast iron and stone bath exteriors can also be painted on site, allowing you to refresh your bathroom colour scheme in the future without replacing the bath.

All bath feet are fitted and levelled before leaving our warehouse. They are also labelled and lined up to make fitting as straightforward as possible.

Some bath feet are supplied with washers and some are not. You may find that two feet arrive with washers and two without. This is because not all feet require washers for correct fitting.

If you believe washers are missing or would like us to send some to you, please contact us and we will be happy to help.

Most freestanding baths require an overflow waste and a bath trap to be plumbed in correctly.

For many of our freestanding cast iron baths, we recommend purchasing the exposed overflow waste and shallow seal bath trap from us. This is because our waste requirements are not always standard, and we cannot guarantee that fittings purchased elsewhere will be compatible with our baths.

Your plumber should always check the bath specification and waste position before installation.

Cast iron baths do not take significantly longer to heat up than other baths in normal use.

The bath water will lose heat mainly from the exposed surface of the water, rather than through the bath itself. As with any bath, closing the bathroom door, warming the room, and using deeper water can help maintain a comfortable bathing temperature.

Standpipes are used to support deck-mounted taps for baths without tap holes. They are usually fitted through the floor and secured in position before the taps are connected. Our standpipes our supplied with flexible tap connectors for easier fitting.

First, connect the flexible pipes to your water supply. Remove the top cap of the standpipes and screw this onto the thread of your taps. Slide the standpipes over the flexible pipes and position them upright. Secure the standpipes to the floor, then slide of the support brace (if using) then connect the other end of the flexible pipes to the taps.

Once the taps are connected, tighten the grub screws at the top of each standpipe to secure everything in place.

When standpipes are described as not suitable for solid floors, this usually refers to concrete floors or other floors where pipework cannot easily be accessed or adjusted from below.

If you want to install this type of standpipe on a solid floor, we usually recommend using a suitable timber plinth or raised base. Your plumber should check the installation requirements before fitting.

Some of our cast iron baths are available either with tap holes or without tap holes.

A bath without tap holes has a continuous roll top all the way around. This option is suitable for wall-mounted taps, freestanding taps, or deck-mounted taps fitted on standpipes.

A bath with tap holes is designed for deck-mounted bath taps. Our baths with tap holes normally have two tap holes set 180mm apart, measured from the centre of one tap hole to the centre of the other.

Tap holes cannot be added or removed after the bath has been cast. Drilling into a cast iron bath can cause irreversible damage to the enamel and is not recommended.

No. We do not recommend drilling tap holes into a cast iron bath.

The tap holes are pre-formed during manufacture. Attempting to drill into the cast iron or enamel can permanently damage the bath and may invalidate any warranty.

If you need taps mounted on the bath itself, choose a bath supplied with tap holes. If you prefer no tap holes, choose wall-mounted taps, freestanding taps, or taps mounted on standpipes.

Standpipes and shrouds are used for different types of bath and tap installation.

Standpipes are used with baths without tap holes. They allow deck-mounted taps to be installed as freestanding taps beside the bath. If your taps already have legs, you may not need separate standpipes.

Shrouds are used with baths that have tap holes. They cover the visible pipework between the tap threads and the floor. If the bath is positioned against a wall and the pipework will not be seen, shrouds may not be necessary. If the pipework will be visible, shrouds create a neater finish.

Once your order has been placed and processed, we will contact you to discuss the delivery process and the earliest available delivery date.

Standard delivery is usually available between 9am and 5pm. Delivery to a specific time of day may incur an additional charge. A smaller transit van may also involve an additional charge where required.

Our standard delivery is kerbside only. The driver is not insured to enter your property, so you will need to arrange suitable help to move the bath indoors.

For cast iron bath deliveries, we recommend having two to three able-bodied people available on site to safely move the bath from kerbside into the property.

We use a pallet network courier service.

Your items are collected from us by our local depot and transported to your local delivery depot. The local depot then completes the final delivery to your address.

Delivery is kerbside only unless otherwise agreed. Please make sure access is suitable for a large delivery vehicle and that you have enough people available to move the bath safely.

The most common standard bath size in the UK is approximately 1700mm long x 700mm wide. This size suits many typical bathrooms and is widely used for straight, fitted baths.

Freestanding and roll-top baths can vary more in size, with many designs ranging from around 1500mm to 1800mm long. When choosing a bath, it is important to check the exact product dimensions, available floor space, plumbing position and access into the room before ordering.

A single ended bath has the taps and waste positioned at one end, with the opposite end designed for reclining. This makes it a practical choice for everyday bathing, shower-over-bath arrangements and bathrooms where plumbing is best located at one end.

A double ended bath has the taps and waste positioned centrally, allowing both ends of the bath to be used comfortably. This creates a more balanced, luxurious bathing experience and is ideal if you want the option for two people to bathe or simply prefer more space to recline at either end.

The right choice depends on your bathroom layout, plumbing position and how you like to use your bath.

To paint the exterior of a cast iron or Rossastone bath, take a light grade sandpaper and whisk this around the bath until it appears 'misty'. Wipe away any excess dust, then apply 2-3 coats of any wood and metal paint using a sponge roller to give a flawless finish.

For a cast iron bateau bath with an overflow, we usually recommend purchasing the exposed overflow waste from us.

Our Rossastone baths have integrated overflow wastes so you don't need to purchase a separate overflow waste.

The bath trap can normally be sourced separately from your local plumber's merchant because it will not usually be visible once the bath is installed.

Please note that this style of bath is generally designed to be plumbed through the floor. The waste exit at the back of the bath is usually not large enough to allow a trap pipe to exit from the rear.

If your bateau bath has a plinth and you cannot access the underside once it is in position, the waste and trap should be fitted before the bath is lowered into place.

Place the bath temporarily on timber supports to give your plumber enough room to work underneath. Fit the waste first, then connect the trap and waste pipe. The U-bend will usually sit below floor level and can be connected to a flexible hose, allowing the bath to be moved slightly without disturbing the plumbing connections.

Once all fittings are secure and checked, remove the timber supports and carefully lower the bath into its final position.

We strongly recommend that this work is carried out by a qualified plumber.

Standpipes are used to support deck-mounted taps for baths without tap holes. They are usually fitted through the floor and secured in position before the taps are connected. Our standpipes our supplied with flexible tap connectors for easier fitting.

First, connect the flexible pipes to your water supply. Remove the top cap of the standpipes and screw this onto the thread of your taps. Slide the standpipes over the flexible pipes and position them upright. Secure the standpipes to the floor, then slide of the support brace (if using) then connect the other end of the flexible pipes to the taps.

Once the taps are connected, tighten the grub screws at the top of each standpipe to secure everything in place.

When standpipes are described as not suitable for solid floors, this usually refers to concrete floors or other floors where pipework cannot easily be accessed or adjusted from below.

If you want to install this type of standpipe on a solid floor, we usually recommend using a suitable timber plinth or raised base. Your plumber should check the installation requirements before fitting.

Some of our cast iron baths are available either with tap holes or without tap holes.

A bath without tap holes has a continuous roll top all the way around. This option is suitable for wall-mounted taps, freestanding taps, or deck-mounted taps fitted on standpipes.

A bath with tap holes is designed for deck-mounted bath taps. Our baths with tap holes normally have two tap holes set 180mm apart, measured from the centre of one tap hole to the centre of the other.

Tap holes cannot be added or removed after the bath has been cast. Drilling into a cast iron bath can cause irreversible damage to the enamel and is not recommended.

Standpipes and shrouds are used for different types of bath and tap installation.

Standpipes are used with baths without tap holes. They allow deck-mounted taps to be installed as freestanding taps beside the bath. If your taps already have legs, you may not need separate standpipes.

Shrouds are used with baths that have tap holes. They cover the visible pipework between the tap threads and the floor. If the bath is positioned against a wall and the pipework will not be seen, shrouds may not be necessary. If the pipework will be visible, shrouds create a neater finish.

Ashbee and Stone oiled oak vanity units are made excusively of solid oak. Our bespoke painted vanity units have solid oak frames and tulip wood panels. Construction can vary by collection and product, so we recommend checking the individual product specification for the exact materials used. Many vanity units are available in painted finishes or natural oak, giving you a choice of timeless, durable bathroom furniture to suit your scheme.

All Ashbee and Stone vanity units are handmade and can be ordered in bespoke sizes. Simply send an email to [email protected] with the specification you need and we can get a bespoke quote over to you.

Most high-level and low-level toilet flush pipe kits can be cut down if the cistern needs to sit lower. However, the amount that can be removed depends on the manufacturer. The flush pipes on the Ashbee and Stone Tamar high-level and low-level toilets can be cut down.

Please be aware that cutting down a flush pipe may void the product guarantee. If the pipe is cut too short, it may also affect the flush performance.

Close coupled: The cistern sits on the back of the toilet pan.

Back to wall: The toilet pan sits on the floor and flush up to a wall or boxing and the cistern is hidden within the wall or boxing behind the pan.

Wall hung: The toilet pan is bolted to a metal frame within a wall or boxing, with the cistern being hidden within the framework behind the pan.

Low level: The cistern is connected to the toilet pan by a short flush pipe.

High level: The cistern is installed at head height and is connected to the toilet pan by a long flush pipe.

As toilet designs vary, a lot of the sizing can too. Usually, it is best to order the same brand of seat as your toilet, however we may be able to advise others that will fit if you have the dimensions of your toilet.

Most freestanding baths require an overflow waste and a bath trap to be plumbed in correctly.

For many of our freestanding cast iron baths, we recommend purchasing the exposed overflow waste and shallow seal bath trap from us. This is because our waste requirements are not always standard, and we cannot guarantee that fittings purchased elsewhere will be compatible with our baths.

Your plumber should always check the bath specification and waste position before installation.

Standpipes are used to support deck-mounted taps for baths without tap holes. They are usually fitted through the floor and secured in position before the taps are connected. Our standpipes our supplied with flexible tap connectors for easier fitting.

First, connect the flexible pipes to your water supply. Remove the top cap of the standpipes and screw this onto the thread of your taps. Slide the standpipes over the flexible pipes and position them upright. Secure the standpipes to the floor, then slide of the support brace (if using) then connect the other end of the flexible pipes to the taps.

Once the taps are connected, tighten the grub screws at the top of each standpipe to secure everything in place.

When standpipes are described as not suitable for solid floors, this usually refers to concrete floors or other floors where pipework cannot easily be accessed or adjusted from below.

If you want to install this type of standpipe on a solid floor, we usually recommend using a suitable timber plinth or raised base. Your plumber should check the installation requirements before fitting.

Some of our cast iron baths are available either with tap holes or without tap holes.

A bath without tap holes has a continuous roll top all the way around. This option is suitable for wall-mounted taps, freestanding taps, or deck-mounted taps fitted on standpipes.

A bath with tap holes is designed for deck-mounted bath taps. Our baths with tap holes normally have two tap holes set 180mm apart, measured from the centre of one tap hole to the centre of the other.

Tap holes cannot be added or removed after the bath has been cast. Drilling into a cast iron bath can cause irreversible damage to the enamel and is not recommended.

Standpipes and shrouds are used for different types of bath and tap installation.

Standpipes are used with baths without tap holes. They allow deck-mounted taps to be installed as freestanding taps beside the bath. If your taps already have legs, you may not need separate standpipes.

Shrouds are used with baths that have tap holes. They cover the visible pipework between the tap threads and the floor. If the bath is positioned against a wall and the pipework will not be seen, shrouds may not be necessary. If the pipework will be visible, shrouds create a neater finish.